While the World Perfumery Congress is under progress and each industry contestant is showing off their wonders, the level of buoyancy becomes stronger. In Geneva, the excitement stems from novelty ingredients and the contentment for innovative technologies. The visitor catches both the exhilaration and the tension as the heady scent of competition is in the air during one of the key events in the perfume industry. For my first visit at the WPC, I could not help falling head over heels, smelling magnificent ingredients while engaging with the most talented perfumers and experienced actors. There were three intense days full of scent-diverse ways; uncovering concept stands, smelling ingredients, listening to conferences, mingling with participants, and finally networking and partying in the evening! At the end, so much learning resulted from attending. My intention is not to provide to the reader an extensive exhibitor summary but to outline a selection of personal highlights of my exhibition itinerary.

A Relentless Quest For The Best Ingredients. And More.

The competition battle is all about innovation.

The 2024 WPC is ‘the sensory event for fragrance leaders’. For industry players who tackle the Olympic battle, the competition is all about innovation. The medals will reward the absolute best performances in fragrance trends, ingredients, creativity, and technologies. In my opinion, the motto ‘altius, citius, fortius’ applies to the tempo of the perfume industry. One key finding was the understanding of two ingredients categories, captive and non-captive. Captive means proprietary and therefore exclusive to specific clients whereas the palette of non-captive is up for sale to the entire market, including direct competitors. A player can very well acknowledge the quality of an ingredient from another contestant and elect to purchase the molecule. Like a decathlon athlete who rarely is the best in all the ten disciplines of the contest. In the end, it is the overall best athlete who wins the game.

Without further ado, I start my paper with an original and ‘naturals’ corner. The first-time stand was popular during the show and was not in the shadow, yet I want to show my appreciation of their grand mission.

The World 7 Wonders of Nature. The Naturals Corner.

The 7 wonders official list features the Iguazu Falls (South America), Ha Long Bay (Vietnam), Jeju Island (South Korea), Puerto Princesa Underground River (Philippines), Table Mountain (South Africa), Komodo Island (Indonesia), and the Amazon Forest (South America). At the WPC, the 7 wonders are of a different nature with ingredients as superstars. The Naturals Corner exhibits seven independent producers from around the world and their stunning natural ingredients; rose and lavender in Bulgaria (by Enio Bonchev Production Ltd); vanilla and spices in Madagascar (by Jacarandas Madagascar); flowers and spices in India (by Jasmine Concrete Exports Private Limited); Peru balsam, styrax, guaiac wood and more in South America (by Nelixia); lavender in the South of France (by Cooperative SCA3P); spices, herbs and coconut in Sri Lanka (Verger); various native naturals in Europe (by Agroforex Company). In one instant glance, the independents express their stance of shared values and commitments wherever the sourcing of ingredients takes place. The Naturals Corner is the creation of Resperfuma inspired by the idea of an exploration all at once of seven destinations. The concept puts the limelight on seven key actors and displays their absolute passion and common dedication for responsible ingredient sourcing. During a WPC conference moderated by the renowned Dominique Roques, currently president of Balsam consulting, three Naturals Corner independents debated on the topic ‘naturals, what does it take to source sustainably?’

Now, moving on to the big ‘names’ and their large stunning booths, I could not help but notice the stronghold of flowers. It seemed that blooms, naturals, or synthetic molecules were everywhere and had taken a front seat and space at the WPC.

Neomagnolan by Symrise. A White Blossom Transparency.

Five years of research and development led to ‘Neomagnolan’ Alexandre iLLAN tells me, perfumer in the aroma molecules division of Symrise. The name ‘neo’ conveys the idea that it is a new take on Magnolan; launched in the 50s, the grand abstract floral is an industry classic. The new molecule is like a grandchild, respectful and zestful, raised to become the suitable successor of a 70 year old senior member. With a broad smile and infectious enthusiasm, Alexandre kindly takes the time to describe the new creation and compare it with the older version. He promptly uses four adjectives to define Neomagnolan ‘the new kid on the block’: fresh, modern, luminous, and transparent. I can add absolutely lovely. He also hands over to me a product data and demonstration formulae brochure, rich in chemical information, odor description, performance, and perfumery use. The white shade picked by Symrise at the WPC fits nicely with the floral bloom, infused by clean, calm and airy tones. Surely, Neomagnolan belongs to the new generation of white and light florals, fully an irresistible attraction.

Givaudan chose the theme of a garden, and what a garden!

The Nympheal impressionist garden at Givaudan

Givaudan chose the name ‘Nympheal’ inspired by Claude Monet’s stunning impressionist paintings of water lilies or ’nymphéas.’ A clear flower inspiration behind the creation of a white magical floral and its transfiguration into distinct colours, volumes, and perspectives. A new landscape in full bloom, an evocative escape named ‘The Molecular Garden.’ To demonstrate the versatility of the olfactory profile of ‘Nympheal’, Givaudan proposed the lovely muguet aldehyde into perfume, laundry fabric, softener, shampoo, candle, and my personal favorite, textile. I am a fan of ‘Toile’ by Byredo, so I am particularly fond of the Tshirt ‘Spritz’ called ‘Citrus pour soi’. What a memorable impression of a sustainable creation! What’s more, I love the opulence of the fragrance… I also listened to the Givaudan conference ‘Understanding & Capitalizing on Gen Z’s New Olfactive Codes’ presented by the mesmerizing Arnaud Guggenbuhl, Global Head of Marketing, Insights & Image Fine Fragrance. As I had not seen the ‘What Is Love’ exhibition*, the presentation was an amazing experience. I learned about the social listening base of the solid two-years of research and got a glimpse of a different world. I embraced the different language of the Gen Z generation: the ‘no filter’, ‘me myself and I’, ‘swipe right’, and specific frame of mind on identity, gender, dating, …. I was enthralled by the perfect translation into two perfumes created by Nisrine Grillie; ‘cry me a river’ a protective shield against anxiety and ‘come as you are’ a pure expression of animal attraction.

DSM-Firmenich revealed its authentic ‘jewels’, its ingredients collection…

DSM-Firmenich Outstanding Ingredient Collection

The company has a rich history of magnificent perfumery ingredients, authentic jewellery treasures based on advanced scientific innovations and experienced natural extractions. I indulged in the 2024 collection of six novelties; two delightful naturals (Pink Pepper Madagascar, Jasmine Flower India), three magnetic synthetics (Dihydroestragol, Velvet Musk, Cashmere Mush) and a superb patchouli based on biotech (Clearwood Prisma). I especially loved the daring of Dihydroestragol, an original aromatic tarragon with a liquorice undertone. It was easy to engage in the DSM-Firmenich experience; I smelled stunning ingredients, discussed with welcoming employees, scanned QR codes and played with fragrance smelling pencils. The playful pencils are smelling tools, not to be applied on skin, for the nose only. There is a large palette of pencils on display, which made me think of a name ‘Beautiful Colours of Ingredients’ to sum up the DSM-Firmenich outstanding collection and obsession on ingredients quality. The company conference on ‘Innovation in Fragrance Creation: Partnership and New Technology at the Heart of New Ingredient Discovery’ unveiled the raw passion of François-Raphael Balestra, Master Perfumer & New Ingredients Discovery and Sarah Reisinger, Chief Science & Research Officer.

With the line ‘We Capture What Moves’ MANE took the visitor through a scientific journey in space and time…

MANE time space station. A mission of exploration.

Like the Geneva CERN Science Gateway, the tube created by MANE is a journey through space, time, science, and the environment. It is a ‘limited edition’ scientific station as once the WPC is over, the paper-based station will be packed up and recycled. The original MANE station is a mission of exploration of perfume ingredients. The creative capsule opens new horizons with wide perfume configurations and a beautiful world in transformation. The space position is for fragrance adventurers, for molecules lovers, for perfumers, for enthusiastic visitors and for optimistic proponents of carbon reduction. There was a splendid ingredients palette to discover at the gate with six molecules from the ‘future’ available in the present; Sublimolide, a warm vegan musk; Benzoin Siam, a spicy ambery pure jungle essence; Rosa Lani absolute, a unique delicate and fruity rose from Moldova; Antillone, a crispy biotech tropical molecule; Jasmine Sambac, with orange flower facet and E-Pure Jungle Essence; Spicyrup, a gourmand new creation inspired by a carrot cake. Spicyrup in itself encapsulates the ‘travelling’ story of MANE’s olfactory station; it is a surprising journey, taking off with a fresh and aromatic start, then cruising over a warm spice and a woody liquorice and finally landing on a vanilla and caramel embrace. Utterly mesmerizing! The conference by MANE on ‘Rescuing the rare: pairing genuine plant conservation with new responsible ingredient creation’ was conducted by Vanessa Handley, Director of Conservation Science at the Red List Project. She interviewed Mathilde Bijaoui, Senior Perfumer Fine Fragrance and Victor Mane, Director, Creation, Fine Fragrance & Ingredients. MANE partnered with the Red list project to set up a non-profit foundation dedicated to plant conservation. Its aim is to prevent the extinction of the world’s endangered plant species. I hence discovered three magnificent, endangered ingredients now protected by the foundation; Pacific Cycad, Magnolia Mashpi and Caribbean Juniper.

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Swiss Double Cream is the Finest. And the World Perfumery Congress.

As a Swiss citizen living in Geneva, I was absolutely thrilled by the choice of the WPC. Choosing Geneva in the month of June was a promise of sunny temperatures, blue lake views, beautiful green parks, elegant outdoor scenery, and delicious sensory treats. The promise was somewhat tainted with powerful evening thunderstorms. No matter the mischievous weather, I was proud to brag about the country’s advanced position in chemistry and perfumery and the overall high-quality experience. One such ‘peak’ is the white Swiss double cream, absolutely delicious. On my list of pinnacles, I have now added ‘la crème de la crème’**, the finest professionals and ingredients at the best show in perfumery, the WPC.

**a French expression meaning ‘the best of the best’ for people

*See our article on Immersive Exhibits