The Absolute Quest for Excellence in the Best Perfumes Substance.
2024 . 05 . 23 |
In my experience, Esxence reveals a perfume universe full of eclecticism and exotism. The ‘market’ place exhibits classical brands, artistic concepts, fashionable projects with commercial intent, new and old continents, learning events and marvellous ingredients. Every edition of the annual event invites the visitor to surprising destinations based on a starting mission. One of my aspirations this year was to discover the treasures of ‘l’Atelier Français des Matières’ and the perfumes creation of ‘les Indémodables’ led by Rémi and Valérie Pulvérail respectively. The intention of the couple is to redefine the art of perfumery, with high-quality fragrance formulations in creative compositions. Their olfactive approach defines a new luxury, purposefully unfashionable and absolutely eternal. Going back to a craftsmanship model, the best ingredients are ethically sourced and assembled. Using the most innovative extractions methods, a scientific team develops new essences... A radical concept inherently vintage and cutting-edge.
It's Time to Go Back to the Roots of Perfumes.
Rémi is a tenured senior expert in the perfume industry with a passion for ‘naturals’, for the sourcing and purchasing of sustainable ingredients. For Givaudan, he set up fifteen new ethical and sustainable sources allowing a secure company purchasing and a positive local development. However, ten years ago, he decided to leave the modern perfumery world and to establish his own company. The reason behind this decision tells me Remi is clear:
‘I am in the pursuit of a different perfumery that aims for high-end fragrances quality, redefines perfume creativity and nurtures ingredients sustainability’. Rémi Pulvérail, Founder of Atelier Français des Matières.
In his opinion, it is essential to go back to an alternative economic model, smaller in terms of production but larger in terms of vision; a wide manufacturing scope starting from the sourcing of ingredients all the way to the bottling of perfumes. His unique model is made by ‘artisans’, independent experts, small raw materials producers, talented perfumers, lab scents scientists… all collaborating in the common search for excellence with the hunt for the best quality of natural ingredients and the highest level of modernity in extraction techniques. The company strict charter of excellence is a guarantee of ingredients quality and a commitment of transparency. Quite simply, this exceptional level of ingredients is unique to the Atelier Français des Matières.
A ‘Fablab’. A Unique All-in-One Fragrance Lab.
Another precious component of Remi’s model is the innovation developed by his in-house lab. A team of eight experienced perfume scientists works on the most modern extractions methods to preserve and enhance the quality of the precious ingredients selected. The lab proprietary technology encompasses ultrasound equipment, icing and filtering utensils, high-tech analysis machines… Such sophisticated advanced techniques allow for a unique scent extraction on dry materials, with no addition of petrochemical solvents and at low temperatures. The high-end process also includes a long time of maturation and maceration specific to each formula and its natural ingredients.
Fragrance Creation with a Perfumer Collaboration.
The alternative model also integrates the fragrance formulation with a selection of main four independent perfumers all sharing the same vision; Antoine Lie (Antoine Lie Olfactive Experience), Eleonore de Staël (Eleonore de Staël company), Delphine Landais Dentraygues (InstantaNEZ), Andrea de Lassus (Empreinte Paris). The talented perfumers thoroughly enjoy the access to a unique palette and the excess in the ingredient’s usage. The usual maximum price limit for the formula does not exist. Instead, against all norms, Rémi Pulvérail imposes to the perfumer a minimum price of 500 euros per kg. Now, one starts to understand why he has used the term ‘Grands Crus’ for his artisanal collection, creating a connection with the most expensive millesime of wines and champagnes. Like French champagne, ‘Atelier Français des Matières’ is an illustration of the French luxury in perfumery.
A Luxury Collection, Artisanal, Natural and Ethical.
Luxury companies have noticed and asked Rémi to create a fragrance for their offices or retail shops; all the shops of Piaget in the world have a scent referred to as ‘the Piaget rose’, a fragrance developed by Atelier Français des Matières. Niche artistic brands also belong to the client’s portfolio such as the lovely Canadian brand ‘Les Abstraits’.
To get a feeling of the immensity of Remi’s capacity and his fragrance artistry, I can recommend tuning in to Persolaise for one of the 10 masterclasses on ingredients. When listening to the sourcing dimension, the equation of Rémi seems simple; to pick one partner per country and develop a very intense partnership.
I personally had the opportunity at Esxence this year to have a smelling experience of the palette by Atelier Français des Matières. The olfactive experience is made of complexity, intensity, and ultimate quality. Out of the forty ‘les Absolus’ signature collection, I made a thoughtful selection of five ingredients: osmanthus, rose, vanilla, hazelnut, and patchouli. Osmanthus is a rare ingredient, beautiful but fleeting; Rémi managed to keep its fruity intensity. As he lived most of his childhood in Morocco, he particularly cherishes the rose from Jamal that he crafted in a modern and candied manner. The vanilla has an intense boozy character. A soft innovative hazelnut from Piedmont and an intense fresh patchouli magnificently complement each other in the last perfume of les ‘Indémodables’.
‘Les Indémodables’. All for Complexity and Audacity.
‘Les Indémodables’ which means literally ‘the unfashionable’, but better translated as ‘timeless’ is the perfume brand of Valérie Pulvérail, the wife of Rémi. The magnificent collection of thirteen perfumes is based on the stunning ingredients of l’Atelier Français des Matières. It is a tandem collaboration, a two-hands composition for the creation of a stunning fragrance collection. Prior to launching her own brand, Valérie had acquired expertise in the distribution of major perfume houses. Her conversation with end-clients gave her precious information on unfulfilled perfume expectations. A yearning for essential fragrances, classical yet unusual, high-end yet easy to wear…
Valérie Pulvérail tells me about her brand foundation:
‘I had the inspiration of a perfume collection composed like an olfactive ‘wardrobe’. Valérie Pulvérail, Founder of Les Indémodables.
‘Vanilla Havane’ is a rock’ roll leather jacket, ‘Cuir de Chine’ is a pair of soft suede gloves, ‘Fougère Emeraude’ is a daring smoking… Each perfume has a surprising olfactive twist and ingredients brilliant mix; tuberose + lavender + clary sage or hazelnut + patchouli…
Her intention is to continue the brand composition with limited editions and artistic collaborations…
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‘Going back to my roots’ This is the title of a song released in 1977 by Odyssey, a British-American band. I like to use it for the work of Rémi and Valérie Pulvérail.
Time for the Essential, for the Essence, for the Soul.
Time for Extraordinary Luxury Ingredients and for Daring Mesmerizing Perfumes.
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