Tea and perfumery share a deep connection, where taste and scent harmonize beautifully. In part 2 of this exploration, a tea maestro guides us through the intricate profiles of tea, revealing its aromatic notes, terroirs, and traditional methods alongside innovations shaping the industry. We also uncover how the art of tea blending parallels and inspires perfume composition, crafting evocative experiences that captivate the senses and celebrate the interplay of two extraordinary worlds.

FROM THE EXPERT’S MOUTH

To better understand the complexity of tea aroma and the savoir faire behind a smoking cup, I got in touch with an illustrious professional, Jeremy Tamen who is a UNESCO Tea Expert as well as a Beverage Designer, and an Ethnobotanist. Jeremy is also an expert in Tea Sourcing and an Aromas and Tasting Teacher at the École Supérieure du Parfum. Later last year he was also appointed a Member of the Committee of Experts at the Cultural Center of Chinese Tea, and was awarded a medal for the acknowledgement, support, and engagement towards the development of the tea sector in the Huayopata District, Peru.

Hi Jeremy, thank you for your time first. I know in late 2024 you came back from an incredible work trip to Peru, and I saw some breathtaking pictures. So, I am curious about your work travels, and in general about how different terroirs affect tea aroma and flavor profile. Could you tell us more?

Sourcing trips are always a source of learning, inspiration, and discovery. I am always in awe when I visit a tea plantation and look at it with my eyes for the first time; it’s a bit like a love story. Regarding different terroirs, each region brings its own characteristics to the tea, influencing its aroma and flavor profile.

The terroir includes elements such as soil, climate, altitude, local farming practices, variety, and the processing by the tea maker—like wine, where one can recognize a terroir, a year of production, and a domain.

For example, tea grown in the high mountains of Peru benefits from cooler climates and more intense sunlight, which can increase the content of polyphenols and pectin, resulting in tea with more complex aromas and textures. On the other hand, tea grown in a more tropical region may develop sweeter, fruitier notes due to higher temperatures and humidity.

Each terroir thus creates a unique profile that is captured in every cup of tea. It is this diversity that makes tasting and exploring tea so fascinating for me; tea is infinite. These trips allow me not only to discover these unique terroirs but also to meet local producers and learn directly from them, which significantly enriches my understanding and appreciation of tea and their culture.

Sourcing is more and more important in the quality of beauty and food goods and today values like sustainability are part of their chain value. How has tea sourcing and selection changed in recent years?

In recent years, the sourcing and selection of tea have evolved significantly, largely due to growing consumer demand for more ethical and sustainable products. Since my early days in the tea industry, and especially as a tea sourcer, I have always focused on sustainable and fair practices.

Working closely with producers is essential. I prioritize small tea gardens. These often family-run gardens allow for the creation of personal relationships with the growers, built on trust, sharing, loyalty, and friendship. I think particularly of a small Japanese garden, as well as tea productions from Réunion Island or Peru. These personal connections are fundamental to ensuring fair working conditions and supporting local communities.

Sustainable practices include reducing the use of inputs (pesticides and chemical fertilizers), responsible water management, and biodiversity conservation. By selecting teas cultivated this way, we contribute not only to the quality of the final product but also to environmental preservation and the well-being of the producers.

Moreover, transparency in the supply chain has become essential. Consumers want to know where their tea comes from and how it is produced. This has led to an increase in fair trade and organic certifications, as well as greater traceability. By choosing sources that adhere to these high standards, we ensure that every cup of tea is not only delicious but also responsibly produced.

The relationships we build with producers go beyond commercial transactions. They are marked by mutual loyalty, sincere friendship, and shared respect, which enrich our collaboration and strengthen our shared commitment to sustainable and equitable practices.

My credo is nature, humanity, and tea.

Tea cupping is part of a tea expert job. Can you describe how this evaluation process works?

Tea tasting, or cupping, is an essential method for evaluating and comparing the different characteristics of teas. Here’s how this evaluation process works.
Preparation of Samples and Tasting:

• Tea Leaves Measurement: The tea leaves for each sample are precisely weighed.

• Infusion: Each sample is infused with a specific quantity and quality of water, at a precise temperature to ensure optimal extraction of flavors and aromas.

• Separation and Arrangement: After infusion, the tea leaves are separated from the liquor, and the samples are lined up for tasting.

• Observation: Both the dry and infused leaves are observed for appearance, color, shape, and uniformity.

• Liquor Color Evaluation: The color of the tea liquor is assessed for each sample.

• Tasting: The tea is slurped loudly (the "slurp") into the mouth to oxygenate the liquid, allowing for better perception of aromas through a retro-olfaction process.

The evaluation criteria are:

• Aromatic Characteristics and Complexity: The aroma of the infused tea is noted, identifying various aromatic notes (floral, fruity, earthy, spicy, etc.).

• Flavor: The taste of the tea is analyzed, considering the balance of flavors (sweet, bitter, sour, astringent).

• Texture: The mouthfeel is evaluated, such as roundness, smoothness, or astringency of the tea.

• Lasting: The persistence of the flavor after swallowing is also noted.

Comparison and scoring:

• Each sample is compared to others to identify complexity, balance, and flaws.

• Experts assign grades or scores based on their observations and tasting experience.

Tea cupping is a rigorous and methodical process that allows experts to objectively evaluate the quality and characteristics of teas. This method is crucial for selecting the best tea batches and understanding how different cultivation and processing practices affect the final product.

On a more domestic level, how can an amateur start working on his tasting skills at home?

An amateur can start refining their tea-tasting skills by following a few simple but essential steps:

• Obtain Quality Teas: Sourcing high-quality teas is key. Renowned tea houses like Tea&Ty, Les Thés sur Terre, L'Autre Thé, and for infusions, Neo-Ka, La Fleur Nue, and Mereiva offer premium teas from distinguished gardens, ensuring a rich and authentic tasting experience. These superior-quality teas help better appreciate the nuances and complexities of various varieties.

• Use Proper Equipment: Proper equipment is essential for tea tasting. This includes a suitable teapot or tasting cup, a scale to weigh tea leaves accurately, and a timer to control infusion time. These tools help replicate optimal conditions for each tasting session.

• Ensure Good Water Quality: Since water constitutes 95% of a cup of tea, it’s essential to use high-quality water. Ideally, use low-mineral, filtered, chlorine-free water, such as water filtered through a Brita pitcher. Over-mineralized water can distort the delicate flavors of tea, while chlorine-free filtered water preserves its natural aromas. Additionally, the water temperature should be adjusted to suit each type of tea for optimal flavor extraction.

• Master Classes: For those eager to deepen their knowledge, there are my master classes organized throughout the year in Paris. Each session focuses on different themes, providing a unique opportunity to discover new tea varieties and refine tasting skills under expert guidance.

By combining these elements—quality tea, proper equipment, good water, and ongoing education—an amateur can quickly improve their tea-tasting skills and develop a greater appreciation for the subtle nuances in every cup of tea.

Speaking about tea consumption worldwide, are there different preferences in various markets? How are they driven by various cultures, traditions and trends?

Preferences in tea are diverse and constantly evolving, deeply influenced by local cultures and traditions while also shaped by global and emerging trends. Classics like Earl Grey remain staples, but innovation and originality are essential to captivate modern consumers and meet their changing expectations. To succeed, one must be curious and creative, attuned to subtle signals of emerging trends, and inspired by flavors and influences from around the world to create tea experiences that resonate with contemporary tastes.

For instance, I recall a creation I developed featuring rose geranium combined with ginger and goji berry. Using rose geranium was unprecedented; I was likely the first to craft such a combination. The geranium became my signature and is also featured in one of my creations for La Fleur Nue. Since then, other houses have drawn inspiration from this and now use this remarkable plant. I also think of accords I’ve created, such as chili-ginger for Tea & Ty, chili-cacao-maté for Neo-Ka, or again the use of Corsican immortelle, patchouli, and vetiver.

These creations illustrate how innovation and inspiration drawn from cultures and traditions around the world can lead to unique combinations that delight tea enthusiasts. It is this mix of curiosity, creativity, and sensitivity to emerging trends that pushes the boundaries of the tea experience, continuing to surprise and captivate modern consumers.

I know you’re a teacher at the Ecole Superieure du Parfum, and I am really intrigued by your classes. Can you tell me more about “teaching tea”, and to which students they are aimed at?

I am indeed a professor at the École Supérieure du Parfum, where I teach olfaction and gustation, with a particular focus on tea and its industry, to students in the Master 1 and 2 FESAPCA aroma program. This is an exclusive at the École Supérieure du Parfum; no other school offers such an extensive number of hours or in-depth courses on this subject.

This immersive experience aims to deepen the understanding and appreciation of tea while developing professional skills in the field. The program also incorporates a unique cross-disciplinary approach, covering areas such as botany, ethics, the agricultural supply chain, visits to producers, and the connection with other “Nose” professions. This holistic approach enables students to develop comprehensive and integrated expertise, essential for standing out in the tea and aroma sectors.

Last but not least, speaking about tea related jobs, which are the main schools and professional figures, and what’s your advice for young people aiming to work in the tea industry?

The École Supérieure du Parfum is "the place to be" for students aspiring to enter this industry. It offers comprehensive training through the MASTER FESAPCA Aroma program, covering formulation, sourcing, regulations, and much more.

On a more detailed level, thematic master classes are also excellent tools for a step-by-step professional development. These sessions allow students to deepen their knowledge and skills in a gradual and focused way, addressing specific topics and providing a practical and immersive experience.

TEA IN PERFUMERY

Speaking about perfumery, various raw materials may suggest the lightweight greenness of tea, along with its floral and hay hints and sometimes even its denser fermented and smoky hues. For example, heavily diluted osmanthus absolute and jasmine absolute capture the charm of classic floral teas whereas only a hint of violet leaf absolute immediately unfolds the herbal quality of green tea. It’s no secret certain roses bear tea smell, though it’s less known that the artichoke-smelling rose oxide, or the fruity geraniol present in rose centifolia absolute are part as well of tea chemistry. Visions of sunlit fields where teas dry and take on their golden hue magically appears along with spicy facets adding a drop of sage absolute to a composition, and even the nutty and subtle leathery sweetness of black tea can spring from a smidgen of myrrh oil measured as if by an apothecary.

Natural tea extractions can be found from a few producers like Payan Bertrand who offers molecular distillations of black, green, and white tea lending rich notes of flowers, herbs and dried fruits. Nevertheless, they are expensive and usually bear undesirable coloration issues.

One of the noteworthy examples is the Jo Malone Rare Teas collection, a luxurious tribute to the richness of tea, and its unique nuances. Perfumer Serge Majoullier drew inspiration from rare and high-quality tea infusions, capturing their essence in elegant and refined fragrances. Each perfume in the collection is crafted around a distinct tea note, using natural tea infusions sourced from some of the world’s most prestigious plantations. For instance, *Darjeeling Tea* features a crisp and vibrant profile, highlighting the freshness of first-flush Darjeeling leaves, supported by a backdrop of floral and musky nuances. *Jade Leaf Tea*, inspired by Japanese sencha, emphasizes a green, grassy brightness complemented by hints of sesame and citrus. Meanwhile, *Silver Needle Tea*, based on the delicate white tea from China, exudes a soft, airy sweetness with floral and honeyed undertones. The collection’s meticulous attention to detail extends to the use of complementary raw materials, such as vetiver, musk, and bergamot, which amplify the natural elegance of the teas without overpowering them. By harmonizing these exquisite ingredients, the Jo Malone Rare Teas collection captures the serene and sophisticated spirit of tea, offering a sensory journey into its diverse terroirs and traditions.

More often, mate absolute is used to enrich tea accords adding a distinctive “straw” texture along with beautiful smoky, leathery, and sweet tobacco facets. The tea accord that made history though was solely achieved playing with synthetic raw materials, and perfume pure genius. It was back in the late 1980s that master perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena worked on a tea accord running for the Dior Fahrenheit project. As anticipated, legend has it that Monsieur Ellena, an avid tea connoisseur, got the idea for a woody and acidulated tea accord after one of his frequent pilgrimages to Mariage Frères, poking his nose inside all those tea pots. Aiming to render the smell of a Darjeeling tea in his own haiku writing, he based the main accord on the fruity-woody greenery of beta-ionone, a molecule naturally found in violet flowers and leaves, as well as in fruits like raspberry, and of course in green tea. The fragrant illusion of a green tea cuppa appears though only when the molecule is paired with the lactonic floralcy of hedione, and the velvety dryness of iso-e super, a transparent wood boosting the almost peppery, lively chill of aromatic facets. A sparkling Italian bergamot topnote and a pinch of orris butter perfected the fragrance giving flesh and sophistication to the vegetal feeling. The submission for Dior was dismissed. Long story short, the green tea concoction was proposed to Bulgari in 1992, and soon became a global success under the name of “Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert”. This creation not only set the foundation for the unmistakable minimalistic style of Jean-Claude Ellena, but also gave way to a new trend in perfumery that’s now become a classic.

Another iconic tea-based scent, Calvin Klein CK One (Alberto Morillas, Harri Fremont) came onto the market right after in 1994 with its glowing laundry-chic musky trail that, along with a worldwide powerful advertising campaign by Steven Meisel, made it an immediate blockbuster popularizing tea perfumes as the clean unisex smell of Gen X.

Following the success of Au Thé Vert, Bulgari soon released in 1998 Black, a darker, warmer composition where perfumer Annick Menardo renders a steaming cup of black tea through guaiacol’s rubbery, roasted sweetness (naturally occurring in black tea), entwined with vanillin’s comforting warmth.

Niche perfumery soon joined this fragrant tea party. Creed Silver Mountain Water (Olivier Creed and Pierre Bourdon, 1995) boosted the crisp and minty facets of green tea, adding a lip-smacking blackcurrant note. The same year, Perfumer Olivia Giacobetti who, back at that time, was the in-house perfumer at L’Artisan Parfumeur came up with the graceful jasmine-tea inspired Thé pour un eté, but in 2000 she changed the game with her impressive Tea for Two giving way to a stream of heavy spiced, and balmy black tea scents drawing inspiration from traditional Eastern tea blends.

L'Artisan Parfumeur struck success again in 2006 when perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour distilled the serene atmosphere of Buthan temples with Dzonghka, an incense laden interpretation of spiced tea with a dash of milk immediately bringing the mellowness of chai. This interpretation perfectly captures the ongoing trend for grown-up gourmand perfumes offering a tapestry of sensations joining more sophisticated lively spiciness and roasted hues to a crowd-pleasing milkiness. The gourmand indulgence of tea grew bolder, with Baruti’s Chai (Spyros Drosopoulos, 2015) capturing masala chai’s spiced reality, and Jovoy’s Remember Me (Cécile Zarokian, 2018) luxuriating in condensed milk richness.

Some discontinued perfumes become mythical unicorns for perfume lovers, and the holy grail of smoked tea perfumes is for sure Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal’s Eau du Fier for Annick Goutal (2000) that juxtaposed the stern smokiness of birch tar with the jammy floralcy of osmanthus over an astringent earl grey accord. Their masterful touch in blending tea harmonies can still be enjoyed in the uplifting Tea & Rock’n Roll (2020), the perfect morning cup with a dash of lemon as part of their 100% natural line Voyages Imaginaires. In the Lapsang Suchong territory, another masterful interpretation is Masque Milano Russian Tea (2014). Drawing inspiration from Russian Tea culture, their love for smoked tea, and the custom to sweeten it using raspberry compote instead of sugar, perfumer Julien Rasquinet concocted a remarkable fragrance balancing the leathery tannins and burnt facets with raspberry ketone enhancing the rosiness of tea leaves. From there, a row of fruity teas flooded the market, featuring e.g. the lactonic greenness of fig as in Le Labo Thé Noir (Frank Voelkl, 2015).

The 21st century brought new dimensions to tea fragrances adding depth to scent with the umami character of matcha, a trendy ingredient that permeated the food industry from pastry chef delicacies down to groceries. This savory signature perfectly matches the powerful trail of mineral moss and ambergris synthetic molecules that form the DNA of various top sellers of the XXI century. Speaking about natural raw materials, of course a pinch of ambergris is a mouthwatering twist for tea accords, but also a tiny bit of brown seaweed absolute perfectly fits the bill as perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato proved with Olfactive Studio Smoky Soul (2023) where its iodine herbalcy boosts the leathery chypre side of a striking smoked apricot tea. Lastly, the creamy side of matcha hints to white chocolate as well as orris butter, and naturally plumps the flesh of white flowers like jasmine, and orange blossom as cleverly played by perfumers Maurice Roucel and Alexandra Carlin in the understatedly chic Margiela Matcha Meditation (2021).

As we learned during our journey, so many variables like terroir, cultivar, processing, as well as blending and flavoring enter the “tea equation” that only a subset of the many ways to enjoy this brew stirred the imagination of perfumers. Who knows what’s next, but for sure we’re going to raise our cups!