The niche perfumery sector has exploded. At this year’s Esxence Art Perfumery Event there were almost 400 exhibiting brands….more than four times the number who were present at the first edition in 2009. And if we take it a step further, we find that in 2024 there were 1555 niche fragrances launched – almost half of all launches for the year!*

If you were a visitor to Esxence, you experienced first-hand how overwhelming and crowded this market has become. Now put yourself in the shoes of buyers, distributors, journalists and even content creators and influencers. How do you find the true gems and how can a brand stand out? It’s a formidable question and one that Essencional’s Consulting Services have been asked repeatedly over the past few years.

At this year’s fair, there were two panel discussions which took on this topic, both with different approaches, and both with key takeaways aimed at helping independent brands find success. In this article I’ll summarize the main points that were shared by industry insiders and experts – consider it a kind of game plan for those facing these challenges.

Retailers & Distributors Speak Out: Words of Wisdom

A Competitive World

Having been a fragrance buyer for many years, I recall the days of receiving numerous unsolicited submissions and of having to go out in search of the truly unique and outstanding fragrances that I knew were out there. The retailers on the panel I moderated told me things haven’t changed, and both of them said Esxence is a great source to find new, undiscovered brands, to see what’s happening in the sector and to see who is shaking it up. They also felt it was important for the brands to walk the show to see what the competition is doing, what’s working for them and what’s not.

And speaking of competition, it’s crucial to know the difference between your competitors and your benchmark. Brands may think big luxury brands are their competitors, but do you share the same customer? Would you actually want to be on a shelf next to a mega brand that has a mega budget? It’s imperative to think about where a retailer would position your brand in their store.

Know Your Retailer

Brands often talk about wanting to be carried by specific retailers – but how well do they know the story behind the shop? Where do you want to position your brand and does your strategy and funding align with the potential retail partner? Do your homework by visiting the stores (or at least their websites) to familiarize yourself with the assortment and understand what costs could be involved in doing business with potential retail partners. Specialty stores or chains, for instance, may expect staffing, sampling and the participation in marketing activities that come with a fee.

You should also know which products are adapted to what the retailer wants. Are the customers hungry for newness? Are they buying several scents to test and try? Are they looking to find new and independent brands? Small sizes and discovery sets may sate the consumer’s appetite for variety without requiring a long term commitment to a fragrance.

Be Unique

A key message that was repeated in the workshop, was the expectation that brands create a distinct concept that is aligned with who they are, that remains consistent in all phases from design, to storytelling, to scents, to values and to the marketing strategy. Be unique and original. Remember, retailers don’t want to cannibalize their existing portfolio; brands they stock have to have a purpose, have to fill a gap, or have to bring something extra and unexpected to the party.

Authenticity and Integrity

In this, a luxury sector, in addition to being unique, brands have to be authentic. For Carlo Pignataro, Luxury Industry Negotiation and Customer Experience Expert, brands need to be true to who they are without trying to be too many things and without compromising – on quality, on price, on the experience, on integrity.

Strategy

Buyers want to know that you have a vision and that you have put thought into where you see your brand in 3 to 5 years. What’s your roadmap to go from where you are to where you want to be? Strategic, long-term planning, which includes marketing, communication, business planning, logistics and production, is indispensable, and should be coupled with short term goals. This winning combination should allow for flexibility to course-correct in the event market conditions change. Be agile – no one needs to be reminded of how life changed almost overnight during the pandemic.

Open Dialogue

The relationship between a brand and a retailer or distributor has to be based on honesty, trust and respect. It’s a partnership that needs to be nurtured to grow, and requires regular, open communication flowing in both directions. Brands need to be realistic and keep their promises on all aspects of the business such as production lead times and on counter dates,

Imagine a retailer gives you a coveted marketing opportunity, and then you fail to deliver on time. The retailer is put in a tough position of juggling to find another brand to fill the void. Not only will you lose the exposure but you’ll lose your partner’s faith.

Community Building

François Duquesne, CEO and Founder of Maison Duquesne based in the US, spoke about the state of retail in his market. He advised brands to build their online community first and then retailers will want to get in on the game. Content needs to be appealing and engaging, and there has to be genuine consumer interaction on social media. It’s not so much about the number of followers (we all know they can be bought), but more on the brand’s overall online presence and engagement.

Who’s Behind the Brand

Consumers have become more and more interested in the real people behind the brand, and consequently, it puts the founder in the role of a showman. Duquesne suggested there are parallels between the entertainment and fragrance industries in which he likened his role to that of managing an emerging rock band.

When you have a highly involved founder or creative director, they are at the center sharing their dream. Think of Jean Claude Ellena or Francis Kurkdjian. Their love and passion for what they do and what they create is magnetic, and their charisma will draw a loyal following to the brand.

The Sales Associate

Lest we forget, we can never underestimate the power of the sales associate. This individual is often the first point of contact a customer has with a brand. They are responsible for many aspects of the point of sale experience, and they can influence which product the customer goes home with. At store level they may act as a brand ambassador, but should they be neglected, it’s at your own risk and peril.

The Brand Side: Speaking from Experience

Now let’s shift gears and take a look at the advice offered by several brands who have a proven track record. In the workshop How to Position Your Brand to get the most Attention from the Press, Influencers and Retailers, four founders/creators shared their personal stories, showing that the road to success is not a one-size fits all: it’s individual!

Etienne de Swardt, founder of Etat Libre d’Orange (ELO), spoke about the early days of his brand which launched in 2006. There was definitely method to the madness plus dedication to making things happen. Initially a mix of disruptive scents (Secretions Magnifiques) along with a few that could be commercial, he pushed the envelope at a time when few others did. The brand’s reputation firmly established, today the business approach is also pragmatic.

Korean brand BornToStandOut could be seen as the heir apparent to ELO. Founder Jun Lim, a former investment banker, chalked his success up to polarization and obsessive consistency. He advised the audience to be consistent at all consumer touchpoints, from the design to the bottle to the juice to the names to the Instagram and TikTok communication, because the more consistent you are, the more people remember.

In stark contrast to this strategy, Thomas de Monaco, founder of his eponymous brand, stated that his brand reflects his own philosophy rooted in building something that lasts. He thrives on subtlety: no flashy campaigns here, he draws like-minded people to his brand who feel connected without being pushed.

Andrea Valdo, co-founder of Jusbox, a brand where passion for music and fragrance coincide, reminded the audience that “Having a great product and juice isn’t enough. Having influencers isn’t enough either.” He suggested collaborating with someone who is knowledgeable about fragrance and who has an affinity with the concept behind your brand.

Conclusion

One thing is certain: the competitive landscape is not going to get smaller. Success will come to those who strategize, who differentiate themselves, who stay true to who they are and who reach out to their community. Hopefully the advice shared in this article, gathered from insiders on multiple sides of the business will be helpful to those carving out their path in the artistic fragrance sector.

*Source: Michael Edwards Fragrances of the World

For more information watch the panel discussions at your leisure:

Finding your niche: how to attract buyers, retailers and distributors to your brand

How to position your brand to get the most attention from the press, influencers and retailers?

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Looking for a more individual approach? Don’t hesitate to contact Essencional to find out all about our customized consulting services.

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