In the heart of Milan, where the remainder of the 1930s Fiera Campionaria whispers memories of the glories of Made in Italy, the fifteenth edition of Esxence—The Art Perfumery Event—unfolded from February 19 to 22, 2025. This annual gathering, a veritable symposium of olfactory artisans and enthusiasts, transformed the Allianz MiCo Milano Convention Centre into a fragrant parade, calling professionals and enthusiasts from all over the world.

Usually held in March in the early hints of spring, the Art Perfumery Event this year took place one month earlier due to the impending reconversion of the venue for the Milano-Cortina 2026 Winter Olympics Village. Consequently, for the same reason the 16th edition of Esxence is scheduled for June 4-7, 2026. The event's sole day open to the public witnessed an enthusiastic turnout. Despite downpour—repeating last year’s weather—a serpentine train of eager attendees braved the elements, undeterred, eager to immerse themselves in the world of artistic perfumery.

As the city basked in the winter chill, some 13,500 visitors from all over the world gathered over four days to visit this epicentre of perfume. The air was full of expectation and the mix of fashionable molecules at the entrance welcomed visitors, this year leaning more towards musky-lactonic softness. A curated set of 384 brands from 38 different countries, including the first appearances from Thailand, Barbados, Lithuania and Latvia, were ready to unveil their fragrant blends.

The inauguration was also honoured by the presence also of personalities from the public administration such as Barbara Mazzali, Councillor for Tourism, Fashion and Territorial Marketing of the Lombardy Region, and Alessia Cappello, Councillor for Labour and Economic Development of the Municipality of Milan. Their presence reinforced Milan's position as a melting pot of artistic perfumery and a beacon for emerging trends.

Within the spacious 17,400 square metres of exhibition space, almost 70% of the exhibitors were international, demonstrating the global appeal of Esxence. The event calendar was packed with 24 lectures and debates, featuring some of the most revered voices in perfumery, including renowned perfume historian, anthropologist and author Annick Le Guerer, who spoke on 'Smell - The Sense of the Future'.

Among the notable trends, exotic fruits reigned supreme. Mango, pineapple, banana, and passion fruit notes dominated the olfactory palettes, infusing the air with vibrant, tropical zest. This fruity galore seemed to mirror a collective yearning for vitality and escapism, a sensory antidote to the current global uncertainties.

The Asian contingent made a significant impact, with brands from South Korea, Vietnam, China, Singapore, and Japan presenting a seamless blend of distant traditions and contemporary flair. Travel-friendly fragrance formats also emerged as a notable trend, catering to modern nomads seeking portability. Given the recent rising prices trend for luxury perfumes, these portable formats offer a more affordable entry point as well, without compromising olfactory elegance.

Synthetic molecules, once shrouded in misconception, are now celebrated for their impact on both olfactory and environmental aspects. Perfumers showcase their innovative compositions, demonstrating a newfound synergy between nature and science, where synthetics enrich, rather than diminish, the artistry of scent creation.

A prevailing theme was the pursuit of inner well-being and psychophysical harmony. Fragrances are no longer considered just accessories but conduits for emotional resonance. The public is now offered with scents aligning with their moods, acknowledging the primal connection between the sense of smell and feelings.

Maurizio Cavezzali, co-founder of Esxence and CEO of Equipe Exhibit, reflected on the event's success:

"This fifteenth edition stands as our most triumphant yet, solidifying Esxence as an indispensable fixture in the perfumery landscape. The caliber of participants, all deeply attuned to emerging trends, has been remarkable. Notably, we've observed a 30% increase in requests for bespoke exhibition spaces, indicating brands' heightened investment in originality and creative expression. Beyond the fragrances themselves, the narratives and presentations have evolved, transforming booths into immersive experiences—from the ambiance of a vintage train carriage to the serene hush of a library."

Silvio Levi, co-founder of Esxence and Director of the Essencional Study Center, added:

"Over eighteen years and fifteen editions, Esxence has become a cornerstone of the international perfumery community. We've fostered the emergence of new markets and provided a platform for brands worldwide. This year's edition reaffirms the market's vitality and innovative spirit, promising to invigorate the sector for the coming decade. Esxence offers not only commercial opportunities but also rich content, analyses, and tools, facilitating connections among cultural institutions and opinion leaders to perpetually evolve our market."

In the wake of pandemic-induced comfort scents and an era dominated by sticky gourmand compositions, well-being inspired perfumery brings on top of a steady growth at a two digit rate, an unprecedented vitamin-like injection of juicy fruits as the therapy against the insecure worldwide situation marked by wars and economic stagnation.

Among the chicest releases there’s Jacques Fath's Musc Couture, composed by perfumer Jean-Christophe Hérault. This fragrance pays homage to the joie de vivre of 1950s Parisian fashion, and the charisma of Jacques Fath himself that was said to be able to illuminate a room with his bright presence. This silky, lactonic musk accented by red fruits and the unexpected allure of purple bananas—less sugary with subtle vanilla blossoms nuances—a nod to the era's playful French haute couture depicted in movies like Funny Face (1957).

Another uber-chic fruit from the Esxence basket comes from Anthologie by Lucien Ferrero that unveiled Rose Abricot, a stunning interpretation of rose from the Maestro’s own garden. One of the best roses I smelled in years, this fragrance melds the lychee-tinged crispness of Bulgarian rose with the jammy voluptuousness of Turkish rose and osmanthus, capturing every detail of the flower, from the rose gold outer petals to the crumpled center petals verging to intense rojo apricot hues. Just a whisper of thorny greenery ensures a masterful balance between crisp floral, acidulated fruit, and opulent rose for a memorable trail.

Spanish house 27 87 debuted Hakuna Matata, a fragrance that embodies optimism. The composition marries the sweet verdancy of bananas with the vibrant tang of pineapple, rounded off by a hint of blonde honey, evoking a sunlit, radiant mellowness that lends the carefree sophistication of a tropical resort.

Lightheartedness in a bottle bordering camp extravaganza though is Neon Lights by Milano Fragranze, a fragrant tribute to Milan's legendary nightclub Plastic, and the free spirit of the 1980s and 1990s parties. Perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer orchestrated a dance of tuberose, the Diva of flowers, atop a vibrant stage of juicy strawberries and bubbling cardamom, resulting in a scent that is both provocative, and playful.

“We like it sassy and sugary” —Seems to be the perfect claim for the Seoul-based brand BORNTOSTANDOUT established in 2022. Right after L’Oréal VC fund backed the house with fresh capital, the founder Mr. Jun Lim debuted the Extrait Extrême Collection. The standouts among the four extraits de parfum are Black Guava by Suzy Le Helley, a metallic peach-infused guava backed by the fermented oddness of oud, and Black Mango by Violaine Collas, which pairs the juicy verdancy of mango lassi peel with a modern woody leather base making it a contemporary rendition of green leathery chypres from the 1940s.

Speaking of fruits, in classical perfumery these notes came first from synthetics only, like the famous peach note in Guerlain Mitsouko. Nowadays though, modern extractions enriched the perfumer’s palette with raw materials coming from fresh fruits. It is the case of Idillios, the latest introduction from Rubini where perfumer Cristiano Canali poured Mane high-tech patented natural extractions from coconut and peach adding to a vanilla and osmanthus core a tridimensional body of sensations from juicy floral to buttery and nutty hues. The result is a comfort scent done right.

Cherry has been done again and again in recent times, forecasting the fruity trend. Yet Maie Piou Cherry Harley proves there’s much more to discover than candied cherries in heavy syrup. Perfumer Jean-Charles Sommerard fuses luscious black cherry with bittersweet saffron, and a smoky, leather-infused backdrop evoking the spirit of a motorcycle ride through neon-lit city streets. A few candied rose petals and hints of velvety tonka bean add depth for a tempting drydown— playful and sophisticated, blurring the lines between sweet indulgence and untamed seduction.

If you just can’t get enough of fruity leather perfumes, the latest addition chez Parfums de Nicolaï is fit for you. Speaking with Patricia de Nicolaï, we both agreed on the underrated beauty of Moroccan Atlas cedarwood, that makes the pillar of her latest creation Crème Ebène. Along with this warm resinous wood, the sawdust texture of cedarwood from Virginia along with buttery sandalwood oil, and the smoked leathery touch of papyrus form the vivid illusion of ebony wood, mysterious and tender. The sumptuous coating of this solid base is a luscious banquet of pulpy mejouri dates and winey dried plums spiced up by the warmth of saffron and cumin uplifted by the refreshing sparkles of cardamom. Super energetic and empowering.

Another super food channeling extraordinary well-being benefits through addictive sweetness is honey. The precious nectar has been used in beauty for its soothing properties, and bees not only bring many symbols of royalty, industriousness and balance, but as endangered species are a reminder that we must take care of the planet. Moreover, the smell of honey brings so many facets from powdery floral to waxy animalic that it is a never-ending source of inspiration for perfumers.

Cristian Cavagna launches his sixth creation under this sweet spell. Regina Vergine (Virgin Queen), a fragrance spun from the very air of prosperity, rises like the Queen Bee in her nuptial flight—soaring alone, yet burdened with the destiny of her birthright to populate the hive for the upcoming years. The sharp green bite of hyacinth and banana leaf, the Musa trademark note running through the whole collection, along with the restless spark of bergamot stir like the hum of wings before ascent. In the heart, beeswax and white petals melt into one—tuberose, and honeycombs magic. And beneath it all, the slow burn of benzoin, and vanilla crown the fragrance with a thick royal jelly effect. A rich scent resplendent with abundance, and hope.

Agarthi Scent Core’s latest introduction Magnetic Maze is an olfactory exploration of unseen forces, guided by bees—nature’s silent navigators, attuned to the Earth's magnetic field. In the legendary realm of Agarthi, where physical laws unravel, they become luminous guides, tracing hidden paths to safety. Their hypnotic dance is reflected in the fragrance’s composition, where radiant mimosa leads into the gilded embrace of saffron and labdanum. At its heart, CPL Aromas’ exclusive Honey AromaSpace, a natural-identical honey note—glistens with golden sweetness, drawing the lost deeper into the maze. An irresistible attraction—precious Cambodian Al Safi Oud—resonates in the base with a hypnotic animalic sensation, dissolving hesitation and urging surrender to its spell.

Last but not least, Hiram Green’s Tryst comes as a luminous embrace of honeyed white florals, an ode to the golden nectar that binds white petals and bees in a timeless dance. The fragrance is redolent of acacia and orange blossom honey—delicate yet opulent, its sweetness entwined with the radiant freshness of neroli and the sheer sensuality of orange blossom. The citrusy brightness of orange zest sparkles at the opening, while rich, sun-drenched resins lend a warm, enveloping depth. A tryst between flower and honey, this scent lingers like liquid gold on the skin, evoking the soft glow of a sunlit grove in full bloom.

Esxence 2025 closed its doors with evidence of the increasing popularity of this unique showcase of niche perfumery. The rise of well-being inducing perfumes and further relevant trends, an extensive agenda of talks and panels about hot topics in the industry, along with the presence of Osmothèque Versailles, Italian Perfumery Institute, and other key cultural partners set the Art Perfumery Event as a yearly appointment not to be missed. This is just the beginning of our journey through Esxence 2025, with upcoming insights into the most thought-provoking discussions, and perfume launches shaping this milestone 15th edition.